Seven Days Among the
Marma & Murung People in Bangladesh Hilltracts


Sangu River

Bangladesh MapHost: Didar

When: Available year round, but the preferred or more comfortable time for westerners, seems to be the dry & cool winter season from early November to late February.

Length of tour: One week is just about perfect to comfortably complete this tour. An abridged version of 3/4 days is possible for those with a tight schedule, or for those with a little more time or interest, we can mix'n match in other tours, such as some that go deeper (or higher) into the interior, or perhaps to the offshore islands, archeological sites, tea gardens and/or the mangrove rainforests (see below).

Minimum number: Our idea of an ideal group is five, including the guide. Still we're more than happy to host any individual, couple or even groups of up to twelve. Note that we'll only be able to accommodate the smaller groups overnight in the interior villages. Larger groups will spend their nights comfortably in nearby small towns.

Languages: English is spoken by the tour guides, widely in the cities and by some people in the smaller towns. Of course almost everyone will speak Bengali, while the interior hilltribes will each have their own language. Still, you may be surprised to find English understood in the most out-of-the-way places.

Fee charged: We generally charge around US$50-75 per day, per person. This is all inclusive - meaning airport transfers, all transportation, accommodations, most meals (all in the interior), guides, and what not. Not included are alcoholic refreshments, handicrafts, personal hygiene & other such items nor the airport departure tax. It does however, include a contribution to appropriate community-based ecological or education projects in our host villages, although not of course prohibiting any guest(s) from pitching-in individually or collectively if they feel so inspired by any particular project.

iconStatement for Impaired: "Certainly some of the hill treks and such would be impossible for a wheelchair or crutch bound person, but we could arrange visits to tribals who don't live on hilltops, and river journeys, etc. In general I think that something could be worked out for most types of handicaps, it may cost a little more for special arrangements, or perhaps on the other hand it may be cheaper if we stick to the more populated areas and towns"

SEVEN DAY ITINERARY

DAY 1:
Your arrival in Dhaka and transfer from the airport to your hotel. As time permits, we'll take a painted rickshaw and/or "baby-taxi" tour of daffy Dhaka. We'll 'ply' both the decaying old colonial areas, and cruise bustling, polluted modern ones. Overnight sleeper train cabin to Chittagong.

DAY 2: Rangamati Lake
After breakfast in Chittagong, we'll drive up through the Burmese foothills to Rangamati. Today we'll visit the Tribal Cultural Institute, waistloom and handicraft centers, some Buddhist monasteries and Marma tribal villages. After a late lunch in town, and perhaps a short siesta, we'll take an afternoon sampan lake cruise to the Marma Raja's (king's) residence, some sacred indigenous shrines and what not. Then sampan it back as the sun sets over the huge and serene Rangamati lake (swimming optional). The evening is free to explore the local bazaar, bargain hunt and meet local people. Overnight in a clean, hospitable, locally-owned lakeside hotel.

DAY 3:
Tribal waistloom An early breakfast (we'll be having quite a few of these, as the best time to travel is in the morning) will prepare us for a short drive to Bandarban, smaller and more intimate than Rangamati, and home to the Bohomong King (whom, with luck we'll be able to meet in the evening). We have all day in this tribal market town to explore the various sites and meet some of the very friendly residents. A hanging bridge, waterfalls, lookout points, cultural institute and clubs, handicraft outlets, a wooden church and Buddhist 'kyangs' are some of the highlights. In the afternoon perhaps a country boat cruise down the Sangu river, home visits (with home-brew for the adventurous) or perhaps a casual game of football with the tribal youths on the river bank. Walks along the sandy river beach (or among the surrounding hills), hanging out or Tea-stall crawling are among other optional evening pastimes. Perhaps we'll catch one of the many indigenous ceremonies held during this season. Overnight in a local hotel or government resthouse.

DAY 4:
Mru youths Yep, another early meal and off again - deeper into the interior, this time to Ali Kadam - and from there a short and easy walk to a small Mru (Murung to the Bengalis) village where we'll be spending two nights. This is where you unpack and settle down to the traditional Mru way of life. These are the most egalitarian, peaceful and independent of all the 14 tribes in the area. They generally still wear only loincloths (both genders), so feel free to make yourself comfortable. We'll stay with the village headman and his family in their large raised bamboo cottage (or with other families). From Jhoom (slash & burn) cultivation to waist-loom weaving, you'll get a chance to experience their still very self-sufficient life-style in full. In the evening we'll be accompanied by Mru youths playing their traditional bag-pipe like bamboo & gourd flutes to an adjacent village and return later in the night after some entertainment and refreshments.

DAY 5:
Mru flutes Today we take an easy jungle trek up a mountain stream-bed to explore the local flora and fauna of the Burmese foothills. We'll halt at a few other Mru villages along the way and be able to see first hand their traditional agriculture practices, handicrafts of weaving, basketry, gourd making, and more. This is not a difficult trek and we'll either have a packed lunch or be hosted at one the villages. In the evening we return to stay at our headman's home - more entertainment and fun. Music is an important and integral aspect of the Mru culture, you'll find them singing throughout the day - while working, cooking, to the children, themselves, the trees and to the hills - about anything that's pleasing. Words are often ad-lib, made up at the moment about nature, love, and day-to-day activities. With their open and free minds, uncut hair (kept in top-knots) and freely decorated with mountain flowers, and unique lifestyle, you simply can't help but to love and to learn much from the gentle, but fiercely-independent Mru people.

DAY 6:
Procession On to explore Ali Kadam (a tiny tribal market town on the Sangu river) and tour a Marma indigenous village. we'll then take a short hilly (and not so bumpy) 'jeep' drive to Lama, where we'll visit a Buddhist village and hill-top monastery complex. Then, after a late lunch, we're off to Chittagong, stopping to explore along the way, as time and inclination dictate. Evening pastimes may include a rickshaw or walking tour of this colonial port city founded by the Portugese - perhaps a jaunt along the beach and/or a tour of the New Market. Overnight in a local hotel or a sleeper train to Dhaka.

DAY 7:
Depending on your flight times, we'll round things up by exploring either the many interesting spots around Chittagong town a little more or perhaps some medieval terra-cotta archeological sites in and around Dhaka, before your farewell meal and transfer to the ZIA international airport.


OPTIONS:
We have several options available that can be added to, or blended in with the above tour. We prefer tailored tours, as this is where our expertise is, we can offer from any of the following:

DISCOVER KEOKARADONG
AND BAWM TRIBAL CULTURE

trek This is a 5-7 day excursion (depending on our starting point) that includes a half-day river journey by country boat to Ruma (waterfalls and tribal market town), then an easy day's hike up a river bed to the historical, lotus-filled Boga lake and a stay on the lakeside among the Christian Bawm tribals. Below the lake we'll find a Tripura native village to explore. Then it's on and up to Keokaradong (a moderate trek), the highest peak in Bangladesh (4,500 ft. or thereabouts). The Bawm people are of Mizo extraction and almost all Christians, you'll enjoy their profound hospitality, and 'guitar' evenings. There's no roads nor electricity this deep, but your heart will surely glow with the warm association of the Bawm and Tripura people.

THE SUNDARBANS BY
PADDLE STEAMER & COUNTRY BOAT

forest A 5-7 day tour to the Sundarbans, part of the world's largest mangrove forest that has recently been designated as a world heritage site. This tour begins with a riverine journey by a colonial steam-paddler, from Dhaka to Khulna (one night and one day, in a 1st class cabin). From Khulna we go on to explore the ancient ruins around Mongla and then boat it into, and through the mangroves where we spend the night aboard if by launch, or in a jungle rest house (if by country boat). For the next day (or two) we'll be boating and hiking among the mangroves, while observing and learning about the abundant local flora and fauna. Traditional honey collecting, a wide variety of birds, small mammals, crocidiles, mangrove and other flora are the highlights of this tour. If lucky, we'll be able to observe the rare Royal Bengal Tiger in this, his home base.

OFFSHORE ISLANDS DISCOVERY

island We have several such islands to choose from, according specific interests and time available, Bhola, Maheskali, and or St. Martin's are favorites. Here, we offer country boats or small launches to visit these sparsely populated offshore islands in the Bay of Bengal. On the islands, we'll stay among the local fishermen in their villages or at small lodges. Traditional sea salt extraction, ancient hilltop shrines, shrimp cultivation, sea turtle conservation programs, coral reefs, local flora and fauna and smaller tidal islands are some of the highlights, not counting the secluded sea beaches with sunbathing and swimming.

TEA GARDENS & RUBBER PLANTATIONS

teagarden Flexible 4-7 day tours to traditional, colonial tea gardens and rubber plantations in the wonderful far northern foothills of Bangladesh bordering on Assam and Darjeeling. Visit the Kookee tribal people who harvest the tea and learn about their unique life-style. Madhab Kunda, the country's tallest waterfall located in a jungle-like area offers a wonderful opportunity for bird watching. We'll also visit the famous Manipur tribals and perhaps see their highly developed "Rasa-lila" dance performance. villages and culture. At the plantations we'll see how tea and rubber are processed and perhaps meet some of the planters themselves. Syhlet is also well known for it's huge marshes, which during the winter are home to very wide variety of visitors of the feathered type - a veritable bird watcher's paradise.

WARNING FLAGS:
The Chittagong Hilltracts have only recently been opened after several decades of being sealed to the public after signing of an internationally acclaimed peace accord between the Bangladesh government and the tribal people. The military are withdrawing and are friendly, but some restrictions are still in place - we will arrange for your tour to be hassle free and fun. However, bring an open mind and keep a smile in your top pocket -- you just may need both if things get rather too earnest.


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